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I still think of it as Galata: the former Genoese colony to the north of the Golden Horn, crowned by a huge fourteenth-century tower. It’s at the top of a very steep hill, which we hiked up more or less by guesswork. Beyond it begins Istanbul’s main shopping street, the Iskiklal Cad, which we wandered around before hiking down, through increasingly poor neighbourhoods, to reach Christ Church )

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